Victoria Falls, with its furious collage of sound and color and
earth-shaking movement, is one of the seven natural wonders of the
world.
In 1855, David Livingstone, a famous Scottish explorer,
first saw the falls while trying to maneuver a dugout canoe through
swirling rapids. Upon seeing it, he is said to have exclaimed, "Seems so
lovely, it must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight." No one
knows for sure, though, because, at the time, he was preoccupied with
keeping his craft ;upright.
Today, though, the trip's a bit
easier. Guests embark from the luxurious Tongabezi Lodge and arrive at
the little island named for Livingston, on the lip of the falls, in a
twin engine speedboat. And they're treated to lunch or afternoon tea
amidst the thunderous roar and cascading waters and thick mists of this
geologic giant.
Dr. Livingstone named the falls after Queen
Victoria. To the locals on both sides of the Zambia/Zimbabwe border,
through which the falls cuts, it's called Mosi-oa-Tunya - "Smoke That
Thunders." It's the largest waterfall in the world based on height (360
feet) and width (more than a mile).
A tranquil moment on the Zambesi. (Courtesy Tongabezi Lodge)
When Zambia gained independence in 1964, officials changed street and
city names from British to African - except for the city of Livingstone
and Victoria Falls. This reflected the deep respect and appreciation the
people of Zambia had for the Scottish missionary.
Zimbabweans apparently felt the same. They actually established a sister city to Livingstone, calling it Victoria Falls.
Travelers
can access the falls through either Livingstone, Zambia or Victoria
Falls, Zimbabwe. The legendary Zambezi River, which originates in
northern Zambia, serves as the fall's water source. And you'll hear the
falls - from miles away - before you see it.
In addition to by
boat, there are two ways to see the falls. The first is by air, in
either a helicopter or microlite (a one- or two-seat fixed wing
aircraft). The views are spectacular - to put it mildly - and they may
well include thundering herds of elephants or other wildlife. You'll
feel like you have a special seat for one of Earth's greatest
spectacles.
The second viewing option is by accessing the various
trails alongside the falls, which will give you a face-to-face look. As
you enter the park and turn the corner, you'll be presented with a
panorama you'll remember the rest of your life. And as you get closer,
walking through the vapor, you'll quickly understand why it's called
"Smoke That Thunders."
In late summer, there's an even bigger
thrill. The water levels are low enough to jump into the Devil's Pool on
Livingstone Island, at the top of the falls. Devil's Pool is an
incredible natural phenomenon, a place where roaring currents flash by
on either side of a natural pool at the lip of the falls. Because the
currents are going around the pool, and not through it, you can swim (if
you dare!) to the very edge without being swept over. From there, you
have a bird's-eye view of the largest curtain of falling water in the
world. In fact, during this time of year, water levels are so low that
some intrepid souls actually walk across the falls. And some simply
relax at the water's edge - literally - only a foot or two from the edge
of a 360-foot drop!
You can make all kinds of friends on the water. (Courtesy Tongabezi Lodge)
The concession for Livingstone Island is managed by Tongabezi Lodge,
which also happens to be a wonderful base for your explorations. This is
a luxurious - and authentic - African lodge, offering 'houses' with one
side completely open to the river, and tours to Livingstone Island and
the Devil's Pool.
Later on, when you're back home in the real
world, you'll be able to close your eyes...and hear that roar, and see
that water, and actually feel that mist on your face.